3. Drama With Dinner | 10 p.m.

3. 表演与晚餐 | 晚上10点

Enjoy the relative tranquillity as you amble through the Anglicized Seventh Arrondissement to the Basque restaurant — the first one to open in Paris, more than 80 years ago — Chez L’Ami Jean. Inside the tightly packed dimly lit restaurant you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with boisterous locals and tourists feasting the night away. As you ponder the 78-euro prix fixe menu, watch the theatrics (and occasional temper) of the chef, Stéphane Jégo, through the kitchen window as he perfects dishes such as mackerel in leek vinaigrette and pork belly with oysters and rabbit. Save room for dessert. The restaurant’s legendary rice pudding, accompanied by salted butter caramel and crunchy meringues, comes in a bowl large enough to feed four and may forever change the way you think of the oft-maligned treat.

在前往Chez L’Ami Jean餐馆途中，你可以在英国化的第七区享受相对的静谧气氛。Chez L’Ami Jean是巴黎的第一家巴斯克餐馆，始创于80多年前。餐馆里灯光昏暗，人声鼎沸，当地人和游客在这里尽情享乐。你在浏览78欧元的固定价格菜单时，可以透过厨房窗户观看大厨斯特凡纳·热戈(Stéphane Jégo)的精彩表演（和偶尔的坏脾气）。他用大葱酸醋沙司给鲭鱼调味，用牡蛎和兔肉搭配五花肉。留点肚子吃甜点。这家餐馆传奇的大米布丁搭配咸味黄油焦糖和松脆的蛋白糖饼，盛放在一个大碗中，足够四个人食用。这道美味经常遭人诋毁，不过这里的大米布丁可能会永远改变你对它的看法。

4, Avant-Garde Art | 11 a.m.

4. 先锋艺术 | 上午11点

If national museums like the Musée d’Orsay are too large, and St. Germain’s galleries too small for your art appreciation fix, you’ll love the scale of Paris’s fondations and the stellar exhibitions they attract. The Cartier Fondation and Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson, which are within walking distance of each other on opposite sides of the famed Montparnasse Cemetery, are sized to offer just the right dose of the familiar and the cutting edge. Exhibitions rotate several times a year, with the Cartier — housed in a light-filled, contemporary Jean Nouvel building — bringing acclaimed talent such as the Japanese pop artist Takeshi Kitano and the Australian sculptor Ron Mueck. The Cartier-Bresson, smaller and more modest, concentrates on photographers like Walker Evans and Saul Leiter.

如果你觉得像奥赛博物馆(Musée d’Orsay)这样的国家博物馆太大，而圣日耳曼德佩区的画廊又太小，不能满足你的艺术欣赏需求，那么，你会爱上巴黎各种基金会的规模，以及它们吸引到的一流展览。卡地亚基金会(The Cartier Fondation)和亨利·卡地亚-布雷松基金会(Henri Cartier-Bresson)位于著名的蒙帕纳斯公墓(Montparnasse Cemetery)两侧，两者在步行距离之内。它们的规模正好可以满足你对常规和先锋艺术的胃口。这两家基金会每年举办几次展览。卡地亚基金会位于光线充足、当代风格的让·努韦尔大厦内，它关注备受赞扬的天才，比如日本波普艺术家北野武和澳大利亚雕塑家罗恩·米克(Ron Mueck)。卡地亚-布雷松基金会面积较小，较为质朴，重点关注沃克·埃文斯(Walker Evans)和索尔·莱特(Saul Leiter)等摄影师。

5. Lunch Worth Waiting for | 1:30 p.m.

5. 值得等待的午餐 | 下午1点半

Unless waiting for bread at the boulangerie, queuing for food is not something Parisians do. But they make an exception for Le Comptoir du Relais, and so should you. On a sloping corner in St. Germain, the sliver of a restaurant is, in fact, most noticeable for the line of hungry people waiting for the first-come-first-served weekend service from the chef Yves Camdeborde, who’s often credited with starting the “bistronomy” trend currently rocking the Right Bank. This blend of a casual bistro environment and gastronomic cooking reveals its magic with simple yet otherworldly dishes like a creamy-crunchy smoked salmon croque monsieur (10 euros) or even a seasonal salad (13 euros), heaped with at least 10 kinds of vegetables and dusted with fine bits of crunchy onion.

除了在面包房等面包，巴黎人不大会为食物排队。但是，他们为Le Comptoir du Relais餐馆破例，你也应该如此。该餐馆位于圣日耳曼德佩区一个倾斜的街角。实际上，对排队等候的饥饿食客们来说，最醒目的就是餐馆前的狭长露天座位。先到先得的周末美食来自大厨伊夫·康德伯尔德(Yves Camdeborde)，他常被誉为当下震撼巴黎右岸的“bistronomy”潮流的开创者。bistronomy是将轻松的小餐馆(bistro)氛围与美食烹饪法(gastronomic)相结合，用简单而脱俗的菜肴展现神奇，比如既柔滑又有嚼头的熏制三文鱼火腿三明治（10欧元）或时令沙拉（13欧元）——这道沙拉至少含有十种蔬菜，撒着脆脆的洋葱小切块，堆了满满一碗。