每周日上午9点至下午1点半，谢尔什-米迪路和雷恩路之间的拉斯帕伊大道(Boulevard Raspail)上弥漫着煎洋葱的浓郁香味。那是洋葱煎饼（2.50欧元）的味道，饼里有洋葱丝、土豆丝和奶酪，出自拉斯帕伊有机农作物市场(Marché Biologique Raspail)数十个摊位之一。26年来，这个有机农作物市场一直是附近居民的挚爱。你可以浏览、欣赏，甚至盯着看，但是不要触碰那些好看的展示品——塞满果脯的长面包，山羊奶酪和伯爵奶酪塔，一篮子鲜药草和莴苣，以及蜂蜜和火腿等可以直接食用的美味。你想好买什么之后，摊主会很乐意帮你拿的。

10. ­Sunday Stroll | Noon

10. 周日漫步 | 正午

No longer are the Luxembourg Gardens the only nearby spot of green where you can eat your market loot. Les Berges, a nearly 1.5-mile stretch along the Seine reserved for pedestrians, debuted in 2013, so what was once a diesel-fume-choked highway is now thronged with strolling families, joggers, bicyclists and skaters. Start at the Pont de l’Alma entrance to the west and make your way past the rotating art exhibitions, climbing walls and stations for hopscotch and paddleball. Once you’ve arrived at the eastern end, near Musée d’Orsay, climb the wood-plank bleacher seats for a view of the boats chugging along the river.

绿树成荫的卢森堡花园(Luxembourg Gardens)不再是附近唯一可供你享用市场美味的地方。Les Berges是塞纳河畔约1.5英里的狭长地带，专为行人保留，2013年开放。这里曾是弥漫着柴油浓烟的高速公路，现在人们纷纷来此散步、慢跑、骑自行车或玩轮滑。从西端的阿尔玛桥(Pont de l’Alma)入口开始，走过主题经常变化的艺术展览场地、攀岩墙以及跳房子游戏和板手球运动场地。到东端奥赛博物馆附近的终点后，你可以爬上露天看台，坐在木板座位俯瞰河上突突而过的小船。

11. Sweet Ending | 2 p.m.

11. 甜蜜尾声 | 下午2点

There’s always room in the belly (or in your carry-on) for French chocolate. And, seeing as St. Germain is the unofficial center of the chocolate universe, counting at least a dozen renowned chocolatiers, make a final sweep of the neighborhood’s offerings, winding up in a cobblestone alley at Pierre Cluizel’s Un Dimanche à Paris. This boutique is also an 8,600-square-foot salon de thé/restaurant/lounge devoted to high-end chocolate. A spot of the pastry chef Nicolas Bacheyre’s chocolat chaud, served warm, not hot, in traditional Limoges porcelain, is guaranteed to send you off in classic style.

你总能给法国巧克力留出肚子（或行李空间）。人们私下里认为，圣日耳曼德佩区是巴黎这个巧克力王国的中心，这里至少有十几家著名巧克力制造店。最后扫荡一遍这一地区的美味，在皮埃尔·克鲁泽尔(Pierre Cluizel)的巴黎星期天巧克力店(Un Dimanche à Paris)收尾。这家高端巧克力店位于一条鹅卵石小巷里，占地8600平方英尺，兼作茶馆、餐馆和酒吧。糕点大厨尼古拉·巴切(Nicolas Bacheyre)制作的巧克力热饮上桌时其实不是热的，而是温的，盛放在传统的利摩日瓷杯里，保证让你以最经典的方式告别巴黎。

Built in 1827, L’Hotel (13 rue des Beaux Arts, Sixth, 33-1-44-41-99-00; l-hotel.com) is the last place that Oscar Wilde resided, and holds a special place in Parisians’ hearts. The discreet and historic five-star hotel has 20 glamorous rooms, including a nearly 600-square-foot penthouse with a terrace a restaurant bar and hammam pool in the basement. Rates range from 295 to 1,050 euros.

L’Hotel（布杂艺术路13号6幢；33-1-44-41-99-00; l-hotel.com）始建于1827年，是奥斯卡·王尔德(Oscar Wilde)最后居住的地方，在巴黎人心中有着特殊地位。这个历史悠久的朴素的五星级酒店有20个迷人的房间，包括近600平方英尺的带露台的顶层套房。地下室里有餐馆酒吧和土耳其浴室。房价从295欧元至1050欧元不等。

Tucked behind the newly renovated St.-Sulpice church, the six-story Hotel Recamier (3 bis, Place Saint-Sulpice, Sixth, 33-1-43-26-04-89; hotelrecamier.com) is quiet, chic and sophisticated. The interior designer Jean-Louis Deniot made each of the 24 rooms, ranging from small to spacious, unique. But they all share a soothing, neutral palette. Rates from 280 to 495 euros.

Hotel Recamier 酒店（圣-叙尔皮斯街3号乙，6幢，33-1-43-26-04-89; hotelrecamier.com）藏在新修复的圣-叙尔皮斯教堂(St.-Sulpice)后面，共有6层。它安静、时尚、精致。室内设计师让-路易·德尼奥(Jean-Louis Deniot)把这里大小不一的24个房间设计得各有特色。不过，它们都采用让人放松的中性色调。房价从280欧元至495欧元不等。